Stop blaming evaporation for your pool water loss
A few centimetres a week. You top it up and blame the heat. Four months later the backfill has been wet the whole time.

A few centimetres a week. You top it up and blame the heat. Four months later the backfill has been wet the whole time.

The water drops a few centimetres a week. You top it up, tell yourself it is the heat, and top it up again. Four months later the backfill around the shell has been wet the entire time and the problem is no longer about water.
Swimming pool leak detection means isolating where water leaves the system before anyone breaks concrete. It is a process of elimination, and it costs almost nothing compared with the repairs people authorise without it.
Philippine heat evaporates real water, and owners use that to explain away genuine leaks for months. The bucket test settles it. Fill a bucket with pool water, set it on a step so it sits at the same temperature and sun exposure, mark the level inside and outside, then compare the drop after three days.
Equal drop means evaporation. If the pool falls faster, water is leaving through something. That test costs nothing and it stops you from paying for a diagnosis you can run yourself.
Four places, roughly in order of how often we find them. Plumbing lines and their fittings come first, particularly returns and suction lines under the deck. Skimmer throats crack where the plastic meets concrete. Light niches and their conduit leak around the seal. The shell itself comes last, and even then the crack usually sits at a transition wall rather than in the floor.
Notice what that order means for pricing. The cheapest repairs are also the most likely, which is exactly why a contractor should test before quoting.
The belief that costs the most: visible cracks are the leak. Hairline crazing in plaster is common, mostly cosmetic, and frequently blamed for water loss that is coming from a return line six metres away.
No. Surface crazing sits in the finish, not the structure, and it holds water fine. Structural cracks run deeper, often follow the transition between wall and floor, and usually come with movement you can see over time. Telling them apart takes an inspection, not a photograph.
We get called to pools where an owner has already paid for shell injection, and the water was leaving through a cracked skimmer the whole time.
Any contractor who quotes structural repair without those three has guessed. Ask which lines they tested and what the results were.
Most investigations resolve within a day or two on site. Nobody needs to demolish decking to find a leak in the majority of cases, and a contractor who reaches for a jackhammer first is skipping the part that protects your budget.
Get the results in writing before you approve any repair.

A slow leak looks affordable because you only see the water bill. The real cost accumulates out of sight.
You have located the leak. What happens next determines whether you do this again in three years.
Use a pool contractor rather than a general plumber, for three reasons. They repair lines to pool service conditions, which involve constant pressure and chemically treated water. They re-establish waterproofing at any penetration they open. And they pressure-test again after the repair, before anything gets covered.
Find it before you fix it, and the repair stays cheap.
Part of our guide to pool renovation in the Philippines. Related: pool water treatment in a tropical climate. If a contractor walked off mid-build, read how to take over an abandoned pool.
Run a bucket test over three days. Fill a bucket with pool water, sit it on a step so it shares the same sun and temperature, mark the level inside and outside, then compare the drop. Equal drop means evaporation. A pool falling faster than the bucket has a leak.
Plumbing lines and fittings account for most of what we find, followed by skimmer throats and light niches. The shell itself is the least common source. That order matters because the most likely causes are also the cheapest to repair, which is why testing before quoting protects your budget.
Evaporation varies with heat, wind, and whether the pool is covered, so measure it against a bucket rather than against a rule of thumb. Loss beyond a couple of centimetres a week in a covered pool warrants investigation.
In most cases, yes. Pressure testing each line separately and isolating circulation narrows the location without demolition. A contractor reaching for a jackhammer before testing is skipping the step that keeps the repair affordable.
Not necessarily. Fine surface crazing sits in the plaster finish and usually holds water. Structural cracks run deeper and often follow the transition between wall and floor. Only an inspection tells you which one you have.
Most investigations resolve within a day or two on site, including pressure testing and physical inspection of fittings. You should receive written results per line before approving any repair work.
Yes. Constant top-ups dilute your chemistry so you buy more chemicals all year, and saturated backfill loads the shell walls from outside. A cheap plumbing repair left alone becomes structural remediation.
A pool contractor. Pool plumbing runs under constant pressure with chemically treated water, and any penetration opened during repair needs waterproofing re-established. A general plumber will not restore that detail.
Send the site details and the intended use, and we will come back with a technical assessment and a costed proposal.